Varanasi: Life, Death, and Everything in Between

My final stop in India was Varanasi, one of the holiest cities in Hinduism. And if there is one place where life and death exist side by side, this is it.

Varanasi sits along the sacred Ganges River. Many Hindus believe that dying or being cremated here can bring moksha, liberation from the endless cycle of death and rebirth. For some, this is the ultimate spiritual goal, and people travel here toward the end of their lives.

Along the river are stone steps called ghats. Some are used for bathing and prayer, while others are dedicated to cremation. Bodies are cremated in the open air using wood, including at Manikarnika Ghat, where a sacred flame is believed to have burned continuously for centuries. It is an extraordinary and somewhat overwhelming thing to witness. Death here is not hidden away as it often is in Western cultures. It is simply part of life.

Every morning and evening, aarti ceremonies take place along the river, with priests performing rituals involving fire, chanting, music, and prayer. I happened to visit during Kartik, an especially sacred month, so the city was packed with pilgrims. Apparently, I was not the only one who thought November was a good time to visit!

I spent half a day with a wonderful female guide, Jyoti, who helped me navigate the city and experience the ceremonies. We also took a boat ride along the Ganges, offering a fascinating perspective of the ghats.

One thing I will not miss is the smoke. Between the cremations, ceremonial fires, and India’s already challenging air pollution, Varanasi was tough on the lungs. I wore my mask around the cremation areas and ceremonies. Frankly, I would have preferred to wear it everywhere, but as a solo Western woman, I already attracted enough attention without adding another accessory to the ensemble.

My favorite day, however, had nothing to do with the famous sights.

Jyoti invited me into her home, where I spent the day cooking with her and her two children. We prepared traditional dishes, shared stories, and enjoyed a glimpse of everyday family life in India. We also visited a nearby home where a family makes clay pots by hand.

The simplicity of their living conditions was striking. It was a reminder of how differently people live around the world and how much we in the West take for granted. Experiences like this are why I love traveling. You learn far more sitting in someone’s kitchen than you ever will checking another monument off a list.

Walking around Varanasi was not as stressful as other cities I visited. Surprisingly, I was approached and hassled less often than in some of the other cities. It was nice to feel like a fairly normal tourist for a change, although I am pretty sure nobody mistook me for a local! Here I am after a motorcycle ride (which requires a strong core in India!)  

Of course, I couldn’t leave India without shopping for more spices. Jyoti helped me select some favorites, and I am determined to recreate a few of the dishes at home. I have developed an addiction to masala tea.

Now it is back to Delhi for a couple of days and then I return home to the Netherlands.

India has been fascinating, beautiful, chaotic, smoky, delicious, and occasionally exhausting. It has challenged some of my assumptions and reminded me why I keep traveling.

I have spent a ton of time knitting during my free time, of which I have had lots.

After all these incredible experiences, I am also very much looking forward to my own bed, clean air, and a little peace and quiet!

Jaipur: Forts, Food, and a Festival of Lights

When I planned my trip to India, I specifically arranged my dates so I could experience Diwali in Jaipur. I’ve always loved the beauty of lights, but even more so the meaning behind Diwali: bringing light into darkness, celebrating hope, and recognizing the goodness in the world. It’s a beautiful message, and one I was excited to experience firsthand.

Jaipur, known as the Pink City, certainly did not disappoint. I managed to see all the major sights, including Amber Fort, City Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar, Jal Mahal, and Nahargarh Fort. Apparently, Jaipur has never met a fort or palace it didn’t like. Each was impressive in its own way, and the views were spectacular.

But the real highlight of Jaipur was Diwali. Families decorate their homes with lights and small oil lamps called diyas, exchange sweets, gather for meals, and offer prayers. Many also honor Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity. Think Christmas lights, Thanksgiving food, and New Year’s fireworks all rolled into one. What’s not to love?

Through a work colleague, I was incredibly fortunate to connect with a local family who welcomed me into their home for the celebration. What an amazing experience! Rather than simply watching the festivities as a tourist, I got to experience the holiday with people who celebrate it as part of their lives. Their kindness and hospitality meant so much to me. These are the experiences that make traveling truly special.

And, of course, there was more food! Rajasthan has its own regional cuisine, and I have thoroughly enjoyed discovering how much Indian food changes from one region to another. I am pretty sure I’ve eaten my weight in delicious food at this point. Absolutely no regrets.

Throughout my stay, I’ve met some genuinely lovely people. The forts and palaces are beautiful, but it’s the people, the conversations, and the unexpected connections that I’ll remember most.

I came to Jaipur for the lights, but I am leaving with something even better: wonderful memories and a little more faith in the kindness of strangers.

Tomorrow I’m off to Varanasi, where another adventure awaits. My stomach may need a vacation, but apparently the rest of me isn’t getting one just yet!

Agra: Apparently Love Means Building a Giant Marble Tomb

I came to Agra for one reason: the Taj Mahal. 

That meant setting my alarm for 4:45 a.m. to see it at sunrise and beat some of the crowds. I am not usually a fan of sightseeing before 5:00 a.m., but this one was worth it.

The Taj Mahal really does live up to the hype. Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan built it as a tomb for his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, after she died giving birth to their 14th child.

Fourteen.

After that, I think she absolutely earned herself a monument.

My guide was also apparently an aspiring photographer and was obsessed with taking pictures of me. So somehow I left one of the most photographed places in the world with more photos of myself than of the Taj Mahal.

I also visited Agra Fort, a huge red sandstone complex tied to the same Mughal history. Shah Jahan later spent his final years there, with views toward the Taj Mahal. India really does not do architecture halfway.

Agra itself felt quieter and a little slower than Delhi. Still busy, still plenty of horns, still very much India—but easier to take in.

I came for the Taj Mahal, and it absolutely did not disappoint.

Next stop: Jaipur and Diwali!

India: Delhi

I came to India for Diwali, the Festival of Lights, and decided to make a larger trip out of it. India has been on my travel list for a long time, and seeing the country during one of its biggest celebrations seemed like the perfect excuse to finally go.

I will admit, though, that this was one trip I was a little nervous about.

I have traveled solo plenty of times, but India felt different. It is huge, busy, unfamiliar, and everything I read before coming seemed to fall somewhere between “You’ll love it!” and “What are you thinking?”

So, for the first part of my trip, I decided to hire a driver and a guide. Sanjay was great!

After three days in Delhi, I can confidently say this was one of my better life decisions.

Because Delhi is a lot.

The traffic alone is an experience. I’m not entirely convinced there are actual traffic rules here. There appear to be lanes, but they seem more like suggestions. Cars, motorcycles, tuk-tuks, buses, bicycles, pedestrians, and occasionally a cow all somehow move together in what looks like complete chaos.

And yet…it works.

I have decided the most important part of driving in India is apparently the horn.

Honk if you are passing someone.

Honk if someone might pass you.

Honk if you are turning.

Honk if you are not turning.

Possibly honk just to let everyone know you are still there.

I was very happy to be sitting in the passenger seat.

Another thing that surprised me almost immediately was how few women I saw out and about compared with men. There were women, of course, but in many places the streets, shops, restaurants, and traffic seemed overwhelmingly male. I also saw very few Western women traveling around on their own.

My sightseeing started at Akshardham, a massive Hindu temple complex filled with incredibly detailed stone carvings. It was also my first real introduction to just how important religion is to everyday life in India. Unfortunately, you can’t take photos but trust me, it is impressive.   

Over the next couple of days, I visited the Lotus Temple, Humayun’s Tomb, India Gate, Kartavya Path, and drove past Parliament House and Rashtrapati Bhavan, the official residence of the President of India.

Red Fort

Raj Ghat, Ghandi’s Memorial

India Gate, Memorial for those fighting in wars

Qutb Minar, impressive tower built in 13th century

Lotus Temple, Bahá’í House of Worship

Memorial for Prime Minister Indira Ghandi

Humayun’s Tomb, Mughal Emperor

I also visited Qutub Minar, wandered through Old Delhi and Chandni Chowk, rode in a rickshaw, explored the spice market, saw Jama Masjid, visited Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, and saw the Red Fort.

What impressed me most about Delhi wasn’t any single monument. It was the religion.

India is predominantly Hindu, but Delhi gave me a chance to see several of the major religions practiced here almost side by side.

I visited Hindu temples. I went to Jama Masjid, one of Delhi’s great Muslim mosques. I visited the Sikh Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib. The Lotus Temple belongs to the Bahá’í faith and welcomes people of all religions. Christianity is here too, along with several other faiths.

Before coming to India, I knew academically that the country was religiously diverse.

Seeing it is completely different.

One minute you are looking at the architecture of a Hindu temple. A little later you hear the Muslim call to prayer. Then you walk into a Sikh gurudwara where people from all backgrounds are welcome.

There are complicated parts to India’s religious history, of course, but as a visitor it was fascinating to see so many traditions existing within the same city.

One of the ironic things about traveling in India is that Indian food is my favorite cuisine, and yet I still had to be careful about what I ate. I was trying to avoid the usual traveler problems—unsafe water, raw produce, or anything that looked like it had been sitting out a little too long. I was very grateful that my guide knew which restaurants were considered safe, because otherwise I’m pretty sure my Delhi diet would have consisted entirely of bottled water, potato chips, and the occasional Kit Kat (which I had one evening, but only cost $.80 total!). Thankfully, I got to actually enjoy the food I came all this way for—and so far, my stomach and I are still on speaking terms.

Butter Chicken, only $8.00 for two meals

Marsala Dosa. Yum!

Tomorrow I leave Delhi and head to Agra.

And then comes something I have wanted to see for years: the Taj Mahal.

At sunrise.

Which sounds beautiful.

The 6:00 a.m. departure required to see it at sunrise sounds slightly less beautiful.

But I have a feeling it will be worth it.