Tuesday, November 3, 2026

Agra: Apparently Love Means Building a Giant Marble Tomb

I came to Agra for one reason: the Taj Mahal. 

That meant setting my alarm for 4:45 a.m. to see it at sunrise and beat some of the crowds. I am not usually a fan of sightseeing before 5:00 a.m., but this one was worth it.


The Taj Mahal really does live up to the hype. Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan built it as a tomb for his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, after she died giving birth to their 14th child.

Fourteen.

After that, I think she absolutely earned herself a monument.


My guide was also apparently an aspiring photographer and was obsessed with taking pictures of me. So somehow I left one of the most photographed places in the world with more photos of myself than of the Taj Mahal.




I also visited Agra Fort, a huge red sandstone complex tied to the same Mughal history. Shah Jahan later spent his final years there, with views toward the Taj Mahal. India really does not do architecture halfway.




Agra itself felt quieter and a little slower than Delhi. Still busy, still plenty of horns, still very much India—but easier to take in.

I came for the Taj Mahal, and it absolutely did not disappoint.

Next stop: Jaipur and Diwali!

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